Final impressions

In my final days, I'm trying to pack as many activities into my schedule as possible. Packing my bags, however, is not part of these fun activities.

I went to a local museum--just to see an exhibition from the Peter and Paul Fortress from St. Petersburg. Then, I went to Lenin's house where he actually (gasp) lived before going to Kazan for university. I also held off from going to museums because I needed my Russian to be good enough to understand what's going on. Artifacts tell a story, but the words keep you from mistaking a guillotine with a deli slicer. (Cultural Note: For anything written in English, multiply by 100 to get the word count in Russian.)

Where Lenin slept and studied before leaving Samara for Kazan University. Compared to the rest of the house and to his family members' rooms, his room was the least decorated.

How to put a man in his place. A medieval torture device on display in the Alabin Museum in Samara. This exhibit was taken from the Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Petersburg.

A few days ago, I was invited to tour a public hospital in Samara alongside a Spanish professor and Macedonian students. I am glad that I received this tour at the end of my stay because it could have tainted my view of Russia completely. As grateful as I am that I got an insider's view of a hospital, I'm still in utter shock of what I saw. Maybe those who complain (residents, citizens, and foreigners alike) about the quality US healthcare will shut their mouths if they see what I saw.

Seeing Diego in over-sized scrubs kept my mood bright despite the dreary atmosphere. Enjoy the demeaning photo before he discovers that I've posted it and makes me take it down. In hospitals, the typical uniform is not that much different from US hospitals, but they wear sandals and chef-like caps.

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I'm going home. The time is right to leave and I haven't become jaded yet. In Tolstoy's "War and Peace," a character named Pierre discovers that he lost a great fortune but feels richer after a life-changing experience. If you know the story, then it's obvious that I didn't have the same experiences as Pierre (he was in prison, and I'm not comparing Russia to a prison). How Tolstoy translates to me: It sucks that I'm going home because it feels like I'm leaving a lot behind, but I feel richer and 'fuller' after being here.

This isn't a good bye, of course. I'm only changing my location.

Throw your gang signs up

Please read about 'gopniks' because I couldn't have done a better job regarding this subject.

NOT an example of a gopnik, just a ladies' man in the making.

They know drama

There is a TNT network in Russia like we have in the US. There are programs that are Russian versions of the American shows. Try and guess what the original American programs are. Have fun!

SOLUTIONS!

1. The Nanny (Моя прекрасная няня)

2. Married With Children (Счастливы вместе)

3. Scrubs (Интерны)

"Boom!" went the night

Around 12.30am last night, I heard an explosion. No one else heard it so I assumed that it was just another Russian driving somewhere. A few seconds later, I heard another explosion. Well, that's not right. From our fifth-floor window, we saw our dumpsters on fire. It didn't seem like a typical cigarette fire because it was too rapid and explosive. Of course, it was terrifying that the dumpsters were so close to the building (and could be close to a gas line), but I was afraid that the firefighters wouldn't come in a timely manner. Fortunately, they arrived 10 minutes after. That was a welcomed surprise.

Smokey the bear says it's super stupid to open the window when you're above a fire.

At 12:20am, I went down to throw away some garbage (non-flammable, all organic material) and immediately went to the courtyard for a few minutes. At 12:25ish, I went back home and there was a man standing in the entrance waiting to enter. He was there without keys and he wasn't calling anyone on the callbox. Funny thing is, Diego immediately called out this guy's suspiciousness (actually, he says that about everyone). I heard the explosions after we got home. It's probably a coincidence, but who knows. It would suck if we were the ones who let the culprit enter the building. It would have sucked more if we were still at the door when the explosion happened.

Coming out of the building today, I saw boxes "blocking" the entrance. This apparently means, "Watch out, we're throwing ashes from the rooftop."

I used to complain that the trash chute in our building doesn't work.

During this event, the neighbors were also sticking their heads out of the window. I couldn't make out what they were shouting to each other (I don't like inhaling ashes so I kept my window closed), but I was scared they were blaming the foreigners living in the building. Strange night.

Not quite 'yellow fever'

Somehow, I came across this blog a few days ago and find it interesting. The writer is an American living in the middle of Russia and dedicates his site to Russian women. At first, I was repulsed by the idea and disgusted by the fact that anyone could do this to women (from anywhere). Looking a little bit deeper, I see that he has some interesting points to make. The post about the difference between the reactions towards pregnancy in America and Russia elicits a compelling discussion.

Your opinions are your own about his site. I've written him and received this answer,

Wow.. another American as crazy as me :) I just got done browsing through your blog. Nice job and nice impressions. Obviously we differ on various aspects of Russian Femininity but that is to be expected.

FYI I believe that Russian Women have enormous levels of womanly "power" that a typical feminist would refuse to admit. When you get a chance you can read this post because I think it pretty much nails what my message is.

Take a look at this site for yourself. Though we don't share the same opinions, I certainly do respect his and I welcome different viewpoints.

Six days left...

In Moscow, a Russian-speaking, non-Moscovite man asked me for directions and I responded accordingly without hesitation. I am not a Moscovite nor am I Russian. That felt good. In my hometown in New York, travelers have asked me for directions, but I'm afraid I was only right 50% of the time. That's a bit embarrassing.

This weekend, I had the pleasure of hosting CouchSurfers (CS) for a few nights. This was my first real interaction with the CS network and it couldn't have been better. Before making judgments or getting nervous, it's credible and I've known others who have had great experiences with it. Now I am vouching for it.

We hosted a pair of young travelers--one from Moscow and the other from Chelyabinsk--who were just extremely pleasant and great cooks. The great thing about traveling is that you are constantly learning, even if it's not a goal. Maybe it was ironic that they were Russian CSers hosted by a foreigner, but we taught each other a lot. I'm not surprised that sometimes I learn more about something in a few days worth of conversation compared to a textbook.

From the left is Marina from Chelyabinsk (CS), Diego from Spain (hidden), Roma from Samara, Stass from Samara, and Sergei from Moscow (CS). Marina made sushi rolls and Sergei was making apple pierozhki.

Couchsurfers or not, I now have extremely high expectations for my guests.

It was a blessing to have new eyes see the city because it refreshed my feelings about Samara. It's a good thing.

7 Days, 7 Sins

Today starts the countdown of 7 days until I go home—if all goes as planned, of course. Though I am unbelievably excited to go home to my family, friends, steak, and US soil, I don't know how ready I am to go back to the States. It's going to be strange and honestly a little scary.

I've grown comfortable everywhere I've lived, but towards the end of my stays, I feel jaded about the city and indifferent to it. Never say goodbye on bad terms.

I was born and raised in a metro New York suburb and I was ready to bolt to university as soon as I turned 18. I immediately fell in love with Washington DC and never wanted to leave. At the end of my second year, I was again anxious to get out of the city. As an aside, I lived on the second floor of a dorm on a busy street across a hospital and metro station. The noise drove me crazy. The night before I left Washington for the summer, my roommate and I were given a private tour to the top of a church bell tower where we could see a beautiful panoramic of the city. All feelings of anxiety and urban frustrations floated away. It was the perfect way to leave DC before going the summer and a semester abroad. In Mendoza, Argentina, I was (and still am) in love with the little city until the very end—when I became irritated at small things that didn't bother me before like curious stares and questions about being a foreigner. The night before I left, my friends and I went to the lounge of the highest building in the city, where the views were endless. I made peace with the city.

There's a pattern I just noticed while writing—I like saying goodbye from a higher altitude. Today, a friend took me to a scenic location outside the city where I've never been before. The view smacked me speechless.

Photos from Vertelyotka Square:

Roman (a long-term student from Nepal), yours truly, and my CSers Marina and Sergei.

Katya (a friend to all foreigners), me a bit taller, Marina, and Sergei.

Tonight made my goodbye more real.

Special Edition Post: Hot Stuff

If you don't understand Russian, read the cover of any issue of any fashion magazine. There, that's what it says. Honestly, magazines are great for language learning because it doubles as a picture-book when you are tired of reading.

According to the response from the last post, I figured I could give you guys a little more taste of fashion. Of course, the street is the best teacher if you are a Sartorialist follower, but magazines can also give you a good insight into culture.

There's a HUGE difference between women-targeted magazines in the US and in the Russian Federation even though they share the same publishers. Here, everything is written in cyrillic (laugh here). There's no real difference from one month's issue to the next month. This month you can find 10 ways to do your hair, but next month, look at the 10 different looks J.Lo had one weekend!!!! So cool!

There are Glamours, Vogues, and Cosmopolitan magazines here and most likely, the information is shared internationally. Some major points that I'd like to mention about Russian versions:

- Their 'man of the month' is naked, always with a strategically placed item hiding his assumed boy parts

- There are articles about children and parenthood (I gagged a little)

- They have a travel section (pleasant surprise)

Otherwise, everything is pretty much the same. Reading is fundamental!

Fee fai 'faux' fum...

Here are current trends that I see in Samara. Some people can of course pull of these styles very well, while others...don't. Unfortunately, these photos are pulled from the web because it's less offensive that way.

1. Indian/Middle Eastern-inspired pants

This is a unisex piece that you can see both men and women wear. At first, I thought that they were ridiculous until I tried on these silly pants. They are as convenient and airy as skirts but still has the privacy of pants.

Actually, anything resembling South Asian or Middle Eastern (in some cases, they aren't distinct, like "Asian") patterns are pretty trendy, too.

2. The Man Purse- I thought it was sweet to see men carrying their ladies' purses, but it was something else when I realized that men also carry their own bags. For the most part, there's nothing feminine about it and it seems to be purely for convenience. Even the burliest of burliest 'gopniks' (to be explained in a future post) can be seen wearing a man purse. These man purses vary in sizes and can be anything between a large messenger bag to a fanny pack (yes) to a camera case-sized bag.

3. Dyed hair- Hair dying is an international trend, but the trend I witness is slightly different than in the US and closer to the one I saw while in South America. Colors are a bit more...pronounced. Black is blacker than night, red is like the red in a rainbow, blonde is beyond-bleached platinum, and gray tends to end up like lavender (seriously).

4. Straight, dense bangs (or 'fringe' if you've chosen to learn British English)- Trends usually become trends because they are stylish and cute. Then a few too many people follow the trend and it loses its charm. Most common here is blacker than black hair with a very, very dense and straight bang. It's cute in a helmet way.

5. Ankle sandals- I tend to agree with footwear that you can run in 'just incase.' So do many women in Russia. Of course, these sandals come in various heel lengths from paper-thin flat to skyscraper high.

It's so hard to keep up with US trends while I'm abroad and I have no idea what to listen to or what to watch. A few months away does that to you, I guess. The good news is that I'm coming home in one and a half weeks. The bad news is that the blog posts will soon end. Look out, America, mama's coming home!!!!

War and no peace

I survived a Russian winter. A winter so harsh even locals admitted that it was cold. I mistakenly thought that once the weather warmed up, I would be fine. Little did I know that I would be at war against nature.

It's hot. Yeah yeah, I know that cities in the mid-Atlantic region of the US are breaking records, but at least there's air conditioning. Here, it's just hot. Even when it's not that hot, the sun is unkind and merciless.

To battle the heat, we eat ice cream. It instantly soothes the mind, body, and soul. The alternative is to jump into the river. It's a longer-lasting kind of refreshing.

One night, a group of us went to meet at the river and some jumped in. It was too inviting and I couldn't refuse, so I spontaneously jumped in. Some people say that the Volga is dirty, so I figured that swimming at night would be better so I couldn't see the filth. A couple of pansies (from Spain, of course) complained that the water was too cold, but it was warmer than any ocean I've ever been in. Swimming in the river at night (no tan lines) trumps ice cream.

Heat 0, Tammie 1. But there are the mosquitos...

Insects in Russia are large. I've seen bees 2 inches long and the mosquitos look like evil-fairies. Every night, I become a mosquito slayer. Yes, I was raised not to kill, but I justify it with the laws of karma. They bite me and inflict pain upon me (I learned that I am allergic to their bites, it's gross), so I can squash them. Let it be, it's MY law of karma. I am paranoid of being bit because it's so uncomfortable (pain, not itch).

My combat tactics

- plug-in repellant in my bedroom that I never fail to use

- a fan above my bed powered on high to blow the mosquitos away.

- sleeping under a blanket to physically protect me from the fighters

- a binaural music track to drown out the buzzing noises

Believe it or not, this only has an 80% efficacy rate.

Tammie & Sarah in Russia: 7 Ways to be a tourist

Introduction

We've spent a few days in St. Petersburg and we did a lot of touristy things. Of course, we've learned a lot about the city and its history, but we especially learned about tour groups and the different kinds of tourists there are.

1. Geriatric - This group can be very lively and energetic, but necessarily slow. They are usually spotted with custom orthotics and sometimes with a walking device. Geriatrics are thoughtful people because they tend to buy many useless souvenirs for their family and friends.

Everyone in this group walked around the Hermitage in St. Petersburg with their cane/chair devices. Upon arrival to the exhibit, they'd all unfold their chairs and lounge to listen to the tour guide. This group is the precursor to the wheelchair tour group.

2. Asian - I am referring to Asians in general. Those from the South Asian regions tend to travel in large groups (usually a family). Other Asians (Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, etc.) usually travel with friends and maybe with a family member. They are usually quiet but like to mumble under their breaths about other people or about how tired they are. The younger persons falling in this category usually take photos with specific poses.

A group of Asian tourists in traditional tourist garments posing in front of St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow.

3. School groups - The average age is 16 years old, but their level of boredom depends on their age. The older they are, the less interested they are in traveling, but the more interested they are in each other. Boys usually make inappropriate comments, jokes, and gestures about the sight at hand. Girls tend to seek attention, mostly by giggling at the boys.

4. Couples - This group varies and it is difficult to profile these tourists. It can be anything from a first date to fifty years of marriage. Either way, they tend to be absorbed in each other and not generally disruptive to other tourists.

5. Young families - We congratulate the effort and expense it takes to transport a family and expose young children to culture. However, they are generally the most annoying tourists. Strollers are bulky, children are easy to trip on, and parents are often too distracted.

6. Spanish - "[They are] loud, obnoxious, and say stupid things," says a Spaniard who some of us know and love.

7. Independent travelers - These travelers vary in group size and age. They tend to wander away from hot tourist spots. They are often lost and can be found in a corner trying to discreetly handle a map and peek into a guidebook. Their reasons for traveling also vary, but their overall intention is to absorb as much culture as they can. Younger members of this group try to milk all the discounts and try very hard not to get duped as foreigners. Stupid pictures often result from their voyages.

I convinced Sarah to pose for a 'stupid picture' in front of one of the great Peterhof fountains.

Conclusion

Essentially, every tourist has their positives and negatives. We have found that overall, there are certain characteristics that extend through all types.

- Every group has a straggler; one who doesn't hide the fact that he or she is tired and makes no effort to catch up with the others.

- Almost all buy some form of souvenir, whether it's an expensive piece of jewelry or a kitschy captain hat that says "I Love St. Petersburg" on the brim.

Because I'm pretty sure we already have a captain's hat back home, I bought my own (for my nephew when he's older than 3) useless souvenir--a toy representing the Russian version of Winnie the Pooh.

- 90% of digital point-and-shoot camera owners take pictures of everything. Of that percentage, 1% will actually remember what they shot. 80% will show these pictures to an uninterested audience.

- Esperanto is (supposed to be) an international language that's easy to learn and understand throughout the world. It's not.

NOTE- If you are not learned in the art of the Esperanto language, we highly recommend that you learn either the local language, some form of English, or how to decode hieroglyphics and other symbols.

A menu from a popular coffee chain that reads 'Breakfast with gruel.' Highly appetizing.

A sign from the Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Petersburg that forbids guests from: holding demonstrations, sell things without permission, walk your dog or other animal, walk on (or off) the roof, play a musical instrument, walk around in a banana hammock, ski or skate, litter, build a bonfire, go around drunk, ride a bike, or knock trees around. This only makes me wonder WHY they had to be so specific.